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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.